SUMPTER, Ore. — This week, we explore eastern Oregon for a golden opportunity to travel from the rails to the trails near Sumpter and then into the Elkhorn Mountains.
The Powder River is a small, cool, quiet and refreshing stream, but on October weekends that silence is broken by the unmistakable train whistle from the Sumpter Valley Railroad.
At the McEwen Depot, a growing crowd is eager to experience the golden days of the Sumpter Valley Railroad.
“Last call! Train Number One to Sumpter departing in five minutes!” said railroad conductor Jim Ross. “It’s a special run, a special event — we’re running folks up to the dredge, close to 140, 150 people. So, it’s all good.”
Tourists have replaced the cattle and timber that were transported down the rail line a century ago. It’s a chance for folks to escape city hubbub for a slower pace and to learn more about Baker County‘s past.
“The railway was very important to the economic development of eastern Oregon,” added Ross. “It was critically really important, and little Sumpter Valley tied it all together.”
At this time of year, the railroad offers something different — a Halloween holiday ride with kids and parents in costumes and also something special: The Sumpter Valley Railroad robbery begins when a half-dozen train robbers on horseback fire blank shots at the train guards.
“Now, don’t be reachin’ for no pistols. Where’s the gold?” said one of the robbers.
The robbers and the train guards are all volunteers who give guests some extra excitement that’s all in fun.
“We’re an all-volunteer organization and just love doing this,” said conductor Ross. “We meet all kinds of great people who come up here to ride — come from all over the state and the world. It’s really a pleasure to show off eastern Oregon.”
Let the railroad and the Sumpter Valley Dredge State Heritage Area be just the start!
Local off-road rider Gary Olson says ATVs allow you to see the gorgeous countryside from a different point of view.
Olson said there are hundreds of miles of designated off-road trails that give the riders access into Oregon’s Elkhorn Mountains.
Olson added that fall is a fine time to explore because the tamarack trees are changing: “First they turn yellow, a yellow-orange, and then the needles fall and turn the ground all around a pumpkin-colored orange.”
Tamarack is a member of the pine family, a conifer species that drops their needles each fall. The mix of colors offers a dramatic seasonal transition that really lights up the scenery. Fall is the right time for exploration!
“It is a blast,” said Olson. “It can be a little cold, so dress warm! The ATVs allow you to slow down and enjoy our special countryside.”
When the lunch bell rings, motor over to the nearby Haines Steakhouse.
The Haines Steakhouse has been an eastern Oregon fixture since the 1960s, but that’s no surprise. After all, this is beef country!
Inside the landmark building in the small burg of Haines, the Old West comes to life! Owners David and Lois Johnson have held onto the restaurant reins since 2005.
“It is the steak house in eastern Oregon,” said David. “The quality of the food, the quality of the service, the atmosphere – people come here, enjoy the food and have a good time.”
Chef Mike Pinkham has worked in white linen restaurants across the country. He chose Haines Steakhouse for a slower change of pace in a region where beef is king.
“Well, we are it when it comes to steak houses in Eastern Oregon, and that’s because we serve the highest quality meat on the market.”
“Our prime rib is to die for,” added David Johnson. ”It’s true western beef and you won’t be disappointed!”
The atmosphere is found in the details of the old-time western memorabilia that fulfill a promise to maintain a family restaurant in the heart of ranch country.
“It’s amazing to me because we get people from all over the world who will visit and return," said Lois Johnson. “That’s what we shoot for – and hopefully everyone will enjoy it and come on back.”
Back on the trail, seasons are changing, and winter snowfall will be here soon, so hurry here soon — for the time is right for exploration.
Be sure to watch the weekly half-hour program of Grant’s Getaways. The show airs each Saturday and Sunday at 4 p.m. on KGW.
You can also learn more about many of my favorite Oregon travels and adventures in the Grant’s Getaways book series, including:
- "Grants Getaways I," Photography by Steve Terrill
- "Grant's Getaways II," Photography by Steve Terrill
- “Grant’s Getaways: 101 Oregon Adventures,” Photography by Jeff Kastner
- “Grant’s Getaways: Guide to Wildlife Watching in Oregon,” Photography by Jeff Kastner
- “Grant’s Getaways: Oregon Adventures with the Kids,” Photography by Jeff Kastner
The book collection offers hundreds of outdoor activities across Oregon and promises to engage a kid of any age.
You can reach me: Gmcomie@kgw.com