ASTORIA, Ore. — When it comes to an outdoor walkabout, Astoria, Oregon - the oldest townsite west of the Rockies and now more than two centuries young - offers a dizzying array of “must see,” possibilities.
From the Astoria Column, to the historic Liberty Theatre or the Columbia River Maritime Museum, there is always so much to see and learn!
Astoria residents Mac Burns and Paulette McCoy teach local radio listeners something new about their 200-year-old hometown each week. Burns and McCoy want you to visit their corner of the state for good reasons.
"It is the oldest US settlement west of the Rockies,” noted McCoy. “That is truly a bragging right. Plus, there is also the beauty of the Columbia River meeting the Pacific Ocean – and we have wonderful restaurants, art galleries and fabulous museums.”
Burns, Director of the Clatsop County Historical Society, offered another significant and sobering bragging right.
“Without this place being established in 1811 by John Jacob Astor, the truth is that Oregon, Washington and Idaho would all be a part of Canada today. That is a fact!”
The Astor party arrived in Astoria just three months ahead of a British scouting party, led by explorer David Thompson.
The party planted the US flag smack in the middle of town where a replica Fort Astoria stands today.
These days, the Fort George Brewing Company has set up shop near the fort replica and produces a namesake brew that’s caught on with a nationwide crowd. Just like the nearby Liberty Theatre,a fully restored city centerpiece where there is always something new to see and do. And like the Fern Hill Glass Studio where anyone can stop in to watch molten glass take form as vases, mugs – even sea creatures.
It’s all rather remarkable when you consider that not so long ago, the entire town was wiped away in a devastating blaze that lasted for days.
The Great Astoria Fire of 1922 destroyed 40 city blocks at a time when the country was already on the ropes.
“The town was built on pilings over the river so they would be fighting a fire in one area and the fire would be traveling underneath the docks and all of a sudden two blocks to the east, the fire would pop up – it was really hard," Burns said. "Businesses were wiped out so a lot of business was hurt badly and people were devastated.”
But the city fathers rebuilt the town – a sign of resilience, commitment and a true Oregon spirit.
This time they built on land, not wood, and shaped the town into what we see today: a place that draws folks from all over the world – including up to 40 cruise ships a year. That is no surprise really since Astoria’s front step is the mighty Columbia River and its enduring influence.
Just off the town’s front step, you can enjoy varied outdoor recreation that’s easy to come by. Where all you need is a trap, some bait and spirit of adventure to catch dinner from the sea – from fresh Dungeness crab to seasonal salmon.
There’s always something to do in or near Astoria, that much is certain. But when you step ashore, step into one of the finest eateries in town for a remarkable dining experience marked by some of the freshest seafood and stunning views near the landmark Astoria-Megler Bridge; this is the Bridgewater Bistro.
Photos from Grant's Getaways: Bridgewater Bistro
Owners Tony and Ann Kischner like to say that their restaurant, established in 2007, has been a “work of love” from the start.
"People say, 'his is a coming-home place. It feels cozy," noted Tony.
The Kischners spent about $750,000 on creating the restaurant, in addition to $2 million the owners spent to renovate the building.
In fact, the Red Building was part of the original Union Fish Cooperative Cannery. The actual cannery was over the water, on pilings used for the Cannery Pier Hotel, an upscale hotel that opened in 2005.
The Red Building was originally the machine shop and boat repair space for the cannery and in recent years, housed a construction business.
Ann Kischner said they chose the name Bistro because it goes well with "Bridgewater" and “because it denotes an informal dining experience in a beautiful coastal setting.”
”It’s hard to beat Astoria,” added Tony. "This is such a gorgeous building from 1896 – all the original woodwork is still here; beautiful timbers – above us and below us. The floors are almost three inches thick. The bones of the building lend itself beautifully to a restaurant.”
And so does the menu, with executive chef Eric Pebley at the helm preparing seasonal dishes so easy anyone can try at home.
Like his Recipe #1 a “Salmon Appetizer.”
He heated a generous amount of olive oil and several slabs of butter over medium high heat in a cast-iron frying pan. This was followed by two generous tablespoons of coarsely minced garlic and then a pinch of chili pepper was added before he placed three salmon filets in the pan.
“This is almost like a very gentle poach,” said the Chef – newly arrived to the Bistro from Colorado. “You can see that the chunks of garlic are getting a golden brown and that’s a good thing,” he added.
He basted each filet with the garlic butter mixture and after just a couple of minutes, turned the filets over.
“We’re almost there,” he said with a smile. “If you were serving this with a nice rice dish, the rice will soak up all of that garlic butter sauce. Guaranteed you’ll love it.”
Recipe #2 is a chef special that marries two coastal food favorites: seasonal salmon and fresh Dungeness Crab.
Pebley suggested that anyone can try this one at home too:
“Make sure you’re using olive oil and butter to keep the fish moist. I like to use high heat and a faster cooking time which might sound counter-intuitive, but the high heat is going to get it done fast and not going to give it time to dry out.”
Pebley’s “Crab Stuffed Salmon” is accompanied by a Thai influenced Chili Lime Sauce that is intense with lots of flavor. Chilis included a jalapeno, serrano and Fresno. Each was minced and mixed with two tablespoons of minced garlic.
Pebley added two-three tablespoons of fish sauce and then two freshly squeezed limes - rinds and all - followed by ¼ cup of water. The spicy sauce was served on the side.
“It’s super simple,” said Peblley. “If you really like spice or don’t like spice you can either add it or not. I think any time you can let people finish food to their taste, that’s really where it’s at.”
Pebley prepared three salmon filets – with salt and pepper - that were deboned and split down in the middle. He placed small slabs of butter into each piece, followed by a generous handful of fresh crab.
“Fish and butter are a match made in heaven,” said Pebley. “They love each other and with local fresh beautiful ingredients done very simply, it all creates a very decadent dish. Hard to go wrong!”
A generous amount of butter – four tablespoons - into the cast iron pan on medium heat for one to two minutes per side, then then set in pre-heated for 3 minutes at 450 degrees.
He removed the pan, basted generously with melted butter across each filet and finished with a garnish of cilantro and scallions. A fine way to wrap the pan seared salmon stuffed with crab – and - Thai chili lime and garlic sauce
Can I say WOW! The lucky diners were in heaven!
“Oh, it is really full flavored,” noted diner Walt Kastner.” It is really a treat that literally melts in your mouth. Amazing.”
“This is fantastic,” added diner, Laura Kastner. ”Super moist and flavorful. The crab adds an interesting dimension to the whole thing. It’s really succulent!”
“Crab stuffed salmon appeals to a large audience,” added Chef Pebley. ”It’s a wonderful dish and super simple. That’s really where it’s at.”
“We offer something for everyone,” said Ann Kishner. “The dining experience is for everybody too. Our mezzanine level has tablecloths for a little more formal setting but with the same beautiful views of the Columbia River. You can come for in a special occasion with candles, flowers and linens on the table or just a casual family meal.”
It’s sort of place that belongs on your travel list, so make plans for Astoria’s Bridgewater Bistro soon.
If you would like to visit more of Oregon – consider a walk on the wild side with my latest book: “Grant’s Getaways: Oregon Adventures with the Kids.” You’ll find activities to engage any kid, from archery to clamming on the coast to hunting for thundereggs to zip-lining through trees in an aerial adventure park.
In addition, be sure to check out “Grant’s Getaways Guide to Wildlife Watching in Oregon.” You will enjoy 48 uniquely Oregon adventures highlighting my fish and wildlife encounters. scores of colorful photos by “Grant’s Getaways” photographer, Jeff Kastner, show off some of our finest moments in the field. You can also learn more about many of my favorite Oregon adventures in: "Grant's Getaways: 101 Oregon Adventures."
You can reach me: Gmcomie@kgw.com