PORTLAND, Ore. — Nat West poured a flight of cider at his taproom in Southeast Portland. Cases of cider were stacked on the floor and the tables were wiped clean. West was preparing for the final day at Reverend Nat's Hard Cider. This weekend it will close for good.
“When is a good time to wrap it up? And I realized right about now is a great time to do so," said West, who's been crafting cider for nearly two decades.
The feeling of finality that comes when closing up for the last time is one Larry Clouser knows well. Clouser owned Pono Brewing.
"I am the former owner of Pono Brewing Company, and we had a sister satellite location called Pono Brew Labs as well that was the first to close down in June," explained Clouser, a longtime brewer.
The closures of Pono and Reverend Nat's follow several others in Portland. Laurelwood Brewing, Sessionable, Brewery 26 and U Brew have all closed down locations or plan to this fall.
“Honestly, it’s not just Portland, brewery sales are down nationwide,” Clouser said.
Both Clouser and West said they noticed industry changes during the pandemic.
“It really signaled some big changes in the way that consumers go about buying things, both in the craft beer world but then overall in consumer goods," West said.
They also said that the next generation of drinkers are after something new. Most 20-somethings aren't loyal to a specific brand or they shy away from classics.
“The younger generation’s habits have changed or what their preferences are have changed," Clouser said.
“Younger consumers are more interested in what’s the whim of the day," said West.
That means the industry is in constant flux. Alan Taylor, brew master and co-owner of Zoiglhaus Brewing Company, said that this rapid change in preferences is common.
“Wine is hot, spirits are hot, beer is hot, craft beer is hot, craft beer is cooling down, craft beer is hot again," Taylor said.
According to Taylor, Zoiglhaus is bucking the nationwide trend and finding success in the taproom.
"We've been very lucky, our facility is up about 10% through the year," Taylor said.
He said that one of the most important things is listening to what consumers want, even if it's ever-changing.
“We can keep testing things — if something catches fire, we’re going to put that in a can and sell that to supermarkets," he said.
But earning a profit hinges on more than just listening. It comes down to doing everything right in what's become an incredibly competitive industry.
“You can’t just make a product and say that it’s made in Portland and have it sell great anymore," West said. "You also have to be a good company, you have to have innovation and you have to have a good environment for people to come visit."
While the landscape of craft beer may be changing and competition is tighter than ever, brewers are confident this Portland staple is here to stay.
“Even with the ones closing, there are some newer ones opening up," Clouser said.
“Oregon beer is in good shape," Taylor agreed.